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New Presidential Dollar Coins Start to Circulate

The United States Mint has recently launched a new series of circulating dollar coins to honor the Presidents of the United States. The Presidential Dollar series will feature four different obverse designs each year, honoring the nation’s leaders in the order served. This new coin series is the latest attempt to produce a series of small size circulating dollar coins.

The Mint’s first attempt to create a circulating dollar coin was the Susan B. Anthony Dollar. This small size dollar coin featured a likeness of the famous figure in woman’s suffrage. These coins were extremely unpopular with the public since they were similar in size and appearance to the quarter dollar coin. The coins were struck for circulation in 1979 and 1980, and then struck for coin collectors in 1981 and 1999.

The second attempt to produce a series of circulating small sized dollars was the Sacagawea Dollar. These coins were launched in the year 2000 with much fanfare. To overcome the similarity with the quarter dollar coin, the Mint utilized a special manganese brass alloy which was golden in color. The coins also featured a smooth edge compared to the quarter dollar’s reeded edge. Although the coin was met with some initial excitement, it was struck for circulation only for only two years, in 2000 and 2001. From 2002 onwards, the coin has only been struck for coin collectors.

The latest series of circulating dollar coins is the Presidential Dollar. The series was authorized by the Presidential Dollar Coin Act (Public Law 109-145). This time around, the Act specifically includes a requirement for the Director of the United States Mint to undertake activities which increase public awareness of the dollar coin and promote its circulation. The Mint has already engaged a public relations firm specifically for this purpose, in addition to other activities.

The coin’s design is meant to be one of the main selling points for the general public. The Act includes language which specifically portrays the series as an attempt to revitalize the design of United States coinage and promote coins as objects of beauty. The coin’s obverse design features a portrait of the President being honored. Inscriptions are also included which list the years in office and the order served. All coins have a common reverse design featuring the Statue of Liberty, intended to symbolize the concept of liberty.

The dollar coins also feature special edge lettering. Incused on the edges of the coin are the year of mintage,the mint mark, and the phrases “E Pluribus Unum” and “In God We Trust.” When the coins were first released, this edge lettering caused some controversy as some people mistakenly believed that the motto “In God We Trust” had been omitted from the coin.

Will the new dollar coin series ever gain widespread circulation? The mintages for each subsequent coin in the series have declined, showing lessening demand as the series progresses. Many believe that the coins will not circulate widely unless the government takes a drastic step such as removing paper dollars from circulation. Time will tell if the latest attempt to produce a circulating small size dollar pays off.

Michael Zielinski is an internet entrepreneur and coin collector. Learn more about Presidential Dollars as the series progresses. Stay up to date with the latest coin collecting news.

Tips for Buying Antiques and Collectibles on Ebay

Buying collectibles is one of the most enjoyable things to do on eBay, simply because you can find so many things that you just can’t get anywhere else. Think of eBay as a clearinghouse for collectibles, antiques, and just general stuff that people want to get out of their house. The thing is, buying antiques can be fun but you can lose lots of money if you don’t know what your doing. Here are a few tips to help you on your way to buying collectibles and antiques on eBay.

But first he wanted do is make sure you can find your Category. If you are not familiar with eBay’s site, there are many ways you can find the things you are looking for. What I like to do is use the search feature. In the same way you use search on the Internet, type in a few keywords of the thing you’re looking for. You’ll probably find that all the items you’re after are listed in a single category. One of the things you can do is use the advanced search feature as it allows you to refine what you’re looking for. Once you find your category, add this category to your browser’s Favorites, and keep coming back.

Keep an eye out for Mistakes. If you collect something, the chances are you know a lot about it. The kind of mistake you’re looking for is one where a seller may not realize the value of the item they are offering. They might not know that they have a rare version of an item, or they might have left off the key information that makes it valuable. When you find these kinds of items, e-mail the seller to clarify and make sure your assumptions are correct. If everything looks good, proceed with the auction and you may have gotten yourself a great deal. You can then resell them at a big profit, if that’s what you want to do.

Take all of the descriptions with a grain of salt. If you find something you haven’t heard of, and the description calls it ‘rare’, don’t assume that it actually is. Remember, the seller is trying to market a product and is going to try to use words that sound good to a buyer. Far too many sellers just put ‘rare’ into all of their descriptions - the chances are that the item is common and has just been described wrongly. Again, do your homework. Take the information and cross check in with other reputable sites on the Internet. The seller may be telling the truth, or they may be in embellishing the truth. Remember, buyer beware.

Stalk Other Users. What this means is to keep track of the different people that create a lot of activity in the category you are interested in. When you collect something, you’ll probably notice that there are four or five sellers who seem to come up with consistently good items - and the same buyers buying them. Add their user pages to your Favorites, and check back often to see what they’ve got - or what they’re bidding on - that you might be interested in.

Don’t become emotionally involved to an Auction. There are millions of items being listed every day on eBay - whatever you want, it’ll come around again, and if you don’t get it there are plenty more things to buy. This is similar to the golden rule of negotiating: always be prepared to walk away. Once your emotions get in the way, expect to pay over the market price. There are few things so rare that another seller won’t have one to sell. Go and bid in a lower-priced auction, instead of getting into a bidding war in one that is already expensive. Always be comfortable walking away.

Remember that postage can kill the deal. If you collect lots of small things with a relatively low value, you might end up paying as much for postage as you do for each item. Always factor in postage to your maximum bid price. If you buy a lot of things, you may be able to negotiate a special rate with the seller too.

The last piece of advice is not to bid too early. You want to wait till the auction is almost over because you unnecessarily drive up the price of the product. If you’re interested in a product, selectable watch it feature and you can keep upraised out where the bid prices are. When the bidding is to end in a half hour, that’s when you want to start keeping close eye on bid prices to wait to the last five minutes or so to get into the bidding.

Matt loves hunting for antique store antiques. Visit the http://antiquestoredealer.com for items like antique wall mirrors.

Selling Your Model Car Collection

You have been collecting model cars for years. When other boys were getting bikes and other toys for the holidays you were thrilled to open your packages and see the newest model cars to hit the market. In a rush you take them to your room and added them to a spot of honor on your many shelves where the rest of your collection rests comfortably. Taking your model cars out of their package would have been unthinkable. You were happy to keep them in their pristine condition until the time finally comes when you decide all is right and you can open each one in pride.

However, as time has gone on so have you. You have grown up and find yourself with much less time for collecting models than you once had. When given the choice of time with your collection or time with your family the family now wins out. You would like to pass your collection on to someone else who will be just as passionate about it as you are. At the same time you would like to get a fair value out of it since you know that some of the model cars in your collection are worth quite a bit. How do you go about doing this?

The first thing you need to do is to determine the relative worth of your collection. By checking with collectors magazines and online you can easily get the values for most of the model cars in your collection. Once you have this information you are ready to begin your search for the right buyer. If you are looking for someone quickly the best thing to do is to list them on a free Internet listing site so that you can move them easily. Another option is to sell them as a collection on an Internet auction site. There are many different ones out there so you just need to find the right one that suits your needs.

If you are looking to get the most value out of your collection and you don’t care about splitting up your collection then an auction is the best way to go. You can list each of your model cars individually so that you get the best deal. This way can be much more time consuming however as you do have to handle each one as a separate auction. If you do not prefer to go this route then you might consider another couple options as well.

If there are local flea markets in your area they make a very good tool. Many different types of collectors browse flea markets looking for new objects for their collection. Odds are you can move several of your model cars this way. If you cannot move them all at once you might speak to one of the dealers that are regulars about buying your collection at a slightly discounted rate. Usually you will find one that is happy to add to their sales items.

The other choice is normally a last choice. Many areas have a local auction house where you can take your model car collection to be sold. This is a very low paying way to sell your collection. You will not get as much as you want but if you need to move it quick then list it this way with no minimum bid. With these options in mind you should now have some ideas as to how you would like to sell your model car collection. Who knows, maybe with these gone you can begin to collect some new ones!

Victor Epand is an expert consultant for model cars, model trains, and model trucks. You will find excellent hobbying and trading resources here for model car collectibles, model trains, and model trucks.

Model Cars From Famous Movies

If you love to build model cars and are looking for a new experience besides the standard issue cars that are scales of ones put out by the auto industry here is something for you to try. Why not collect and assemble model cars from famous movies? There are no shortage of famous movie car models out there. From the cars of comic book heroes that have made it to the big screen to those famous cars from kids movies there is a world of these movie cars available in model form.

One thing you must decide is the skill level of the model car you wish to assemble. It’s great to want to assemble that big black car that was in the caped crusader movie, but if that model car far surpasses your skill level then you are taking a big chance on whether or not you can properly put it together. Odds are that there are more model cars out there that are scales of this same vehicle but are a much more manageable skill level. You do not want to lose money on something that you could get such enjoyment out of.

Another thing to think about is watching exactly which manufacturer you buy your movie model from. When model makers get the rights to produce a model of a movie car it is called licensing. While many of these makers do go through the necessary steps for licensing there are others that do not. What they do is to produce a model that is very similar but not exactly the same. The false manufacturers may use a paint scheme that is close to the original as well. Also they will avoid using the correct name of the movie car so that they can hopefully pass them off as an acceptable facsimile. Many people fall for knock off model cars such as this. Now that you know what to watch for you will be better able to spot a phony.

The biggest issue with buying a model of a famous movie car is that many times it represents the vehicle in pristine condition. With a little work, however, you can quickly customize your model to more closely resemble the car as it was in your favorite scene. From adding damage to customizing the decals and paint job this is one way to put your personal touch on your model. Another thing to think about is whether or not you want to set your car in a diorama. This is a representation of a scene from the movie in which the car was featured.

No matter what movie you have seen that had a great automobile in it you can just about bet that there is a model out there for that particular car. All it will take is a bit of hunting to find it and then patience to build it and then you will have a nice new model car for your collection. Building dioramas can be the best way to showcase your movie model cars and can be fun to build as well.

Victor Epand is an expert consultant for model cars, model trains, and model trucks. You will find excellent hobbying and trading resources here for model movie cars, model trains, and model trucks.

The Collecting Of Antique Axes And Edged Tools

Edge tools are among the earliest tool forms, with surviving primitive axes dated to 8000 B.C.. Early axes were made by “wrapping” the red hot iron around a form, yielding the eye of the axe. The steel bit, introduced in the 18th century, was laid into the fold at the front and hammered into an edge. The side opposite the bit was later extended into a poll, for better balance and to provide a hammering surface.

The handles took on a variety of shapes, some indicative or origin, others relating to function. The length of the handle had more to do with the arc of the swing that was required. Felling axes took a full swing and therefore needed the longest handles. Early axes have their handles fitted through the eye from the top down and the handles remain in place by locking into the taper of the eye, so they can be removed for sharpening.

Later axes, however, have their handles fit through the eye from the bottom up, and have a wedge driven in from the top. This permanently locks the handle to the axe and was much preferred by American woodsmen. Many axes found today had been discarded because the handle was split or broken off. In most cases they can be bought at a fraction of their value and, with another handle, can be restored to their original condition. Most axe collectors have a stock of older flea-market handles that they use for this restoration. Like plane blades, axe handles might have been replaced two or three times throughout the life of the tool. As long as the handle is “proper,” meaning, the right shape and length for its function, it won’t detract that much from its value.

Pricing of antique axes runs the entire gamut from a few dollars to several hundred. Examples of well-made axes would include the Plumb, White, Kelly, Miller and numerous others. Beyond these were axes of sometimes lesser quality, but built to a price, and sold by the thousands. Exceptional examples might include handmade axes, possibly from the local blacksmith, or from a factory that specialized in the handmade article, regardless of price.

There are several types of axes out there such as:

SINGLE BIT FELLING AXE:
This axe is considered the workhorse of the axe family. It is a simple design, varying from a 2 lb. head used by campers to the 4 to 7 lb. head used for forest work. There are heads used in lumbermen’s competition that are up to 12lbs.. With the advent of the two-man crosscut saw, and later the power chain saw, tree no longer are taken down by axes. The axe is more a utility tool for clearing branches off the downed tree, and splitting firewood.

DOUBLE BIT FELLING AXE:
Double bit axes always have straight handles, unlike any other modern axe. Almost all axe handles are hickory. Hickory has both strength and spring, and was found very early to be the best for axe handles. Starting in the late 1800’s a number of axe manufactures adopted intricate logos that were embossed or etched on the head of the axe. Almost 200 different styles have been identified to date and these have also become an interesting collectible.

BROAD AXE:
The broad axe is not as common as the felling axe, and is a lot larger. It’s purpose was to square up logs into beams. It used a much shorter swing that the felling axe, therefore required a much shorter handle. The identifying feature of many of these axes is the chisel edge, that allowed the back side of the axe to be dead flat. Because of that, it posed a problem of clearance for the hands. To keep the hands from being scraped, the handle was canted or swayed away from the flat plane of the axe. This is the feature that should always be looked for when buying a broad axe. If the edge is chisel-sharpened, then the handle should be swayed. As with the felling axe, the broad axe heads have a variety of patterns, mostly a result of geographical preference.

GOOSEWING AXE:
The goose wing axe is one of the most artistic looking tools out there, and it takes it’s name from its resemblance to the wing of a goose in flight. It functions exactly as the chisel-edged broad axe, except that the American version has the handle socket more heavily bent or canted up from the plane of the blade. These axes are large and difficult to forge. Many show cracks and repairs and an original handle is rare. Signed pieces, particularly by American makers, mostly Pennsylvania Dutch, are considerably more valuable. Also of importance is the difference in value between American and European axes, the American ones being worth considerably more. A few well-known 19th century American makers whose names appear imprinted on axes are Stohler, Stahler, Sener, Rohrbach, Addams, and L.& I.J. White.

SHIPWRIGHT’S OR MAST AXE:
This axe is used for shaping ships’ masts and timbers, and is usually ground on both sides. It varies in length base on local usage. The double pointed ears or lugs are common with this axe.

COOPER’S AXE:
This axe has a lighter handle socket, well canted and carries a very short handle. Although the general differentiation between an axe and a hatchet is that an axe is used with two hands and a hatchet with one, the cooper’s axe is one of the exceptions to the rule. It was used mostly for shaping barrel staves, and was almost always used with one hand while the other held the stave.

COACHMAKER’S AXE:
This is an asymmetrical axe used for shaping coach parts in almost a paring manner. The heads vary in size, some styles taking on a “bearded” effect, hence the nickname “bearded axe.” These axes are almost exclusively of European origin.

ICE AXE:
Back in the day, ice was harvested in the winter from ponds and lakes and stored in ice-housed for summer use. This was an important winter cash crop for many farmers. There was a whole family of tools developed to serve this industry, among them was the ice axe. Again, local patterns create a variety of styles.

FIRE AXE:
These are sought-after collectibles, because many of the older ones have the fire company’s monogram on the head. All have rear pikes used for clearing openings or creating ventilation.

MORTISING AXE:
The blade on these axes are long and narrow to accommodate the size of the mortise hole it was designed to cut, most often for post and beam construction or for post and rail. Some have double bits, one bit sized for the length and the other for the width of the hole.

TRADE AXE:
Trade axes were originally brought over by the French and Spanish and later by the English and were traded to the Indians who held them in very high regard. They were poll-less and small enough to be carried at the belt and used with one hand. The larger variety were known as squaw axes and were used by the women for chopping wood.

TURF or BOG AXE:
Used for cutting turf and peat, these axes are not heavy enough to cut wood.

HATCHET:
Hatchets are small axes used with one hand.

Visit The Antique Tool Store
for great prices on Antique Axes and Hatchets.

Antique Furniture - Is Yours Authentic?

Ever wonder if the dining table passed down to you from old Aunt May was worth anything? Visit a garage sale in the neighborhood and saw on old chair that looked like it could be a diamond in the rough? Many people unknowingly own or purchase valuable pieces of antique furniture. If you are the garage sale scavenger, it may be worth your while to learn more about how to figure out if it really is a diamond or just a lump of coal. Although dealers and serious collectors are best able to distinguish a genuine piece of furniture from a replica, a few small bits of knowledge can go a long way in helping you decipher the differences…unless you are planning on taking an expert along with you every weekend!

True antiques do not often display exact symmetry, as this was impossible to achieve when working solely by hand. It was really with the introduction of the assembly line process with the Model T Ford, that things were imperfect. It was not uncommon for two same pieces of furniture to have parts that were not interchangeable. These pieces are imperfect and small details can usually be spotted, such as rungs and spindles that are not uniform, or shapes that vary somewhat. So, look for furniture that has a hand made or hand worked appearance. Furniture components were not machine-cut until about 1860, so examining the drawers can provide tell-tale signs. If the drawer was constructed using handmade dovetails, it was produced prior to that time. Older pieces also required the use of hand tools, such as planes and draw-knives, which left nicks and marks in the wood.

Another way to identify an antique is by examining the finish. Oil, wax, and milk paint were used on the earliest pieces and eventually replaced by Shellac. By the mid-1800s, lacquer and varnish became popular finishes, helping to date a later piece. It is possible to test for various finishes, much to the dismay of dealers. If a Shellac finish is dabbed with alcohol, it will dissolve. While this is a good test, it is one that should only be used when you have the permission of the seller. Sometimes you can’t always use this test, but it can come in handy, especially if this knowledge is mentioned to a questionable dealer. It can get some to admit whether it is or isn’t real.

Knowing your woods will help tell the difference. Oak represents most of the oldest pieces of furniture, prior to 1700. With the turn of the 18th Century, mahogany and walnut dominated the woodworking world. Pine has always been a popular choice for American products because it is plentiful and easy to manipulate. More valuable pieces can also be found in maple, walnut and cherry, as these types of wood are more valuable on their on. Familiarize yourself with the different colors of the woods, as well as the different grain patterns.

Quality and condition are the final important factors to consider when shopping for antique furniture. Pieces constructed by a particular designer may be declared valuable, regardless of their age or condition. However, in most cases, original components in great condition equal higher worth. It is also worthy to note that handy persons often like to purchase old pieces of furniture for refinishing purposes. Since most antiques are best left in their original state, many experts recommend finding out the value of a particular piece before engaging in any modifications.

At the end of the day, it may be smartest to get an expert opinion of you aren’t sure of the authenticity of your piece of furniture. It is better to spend a few dollars on an expert opinion up front, than to destroy a piece of furniture that could be worth hundreds or thousands of dollars. And it may be better to know before you spend money on something that may be worthless.

Matt loves hunting for antique store antiques. Visit the http://antiquestoredealer.com for items like antique wall mirrors.

Coin Collecting as a Hobby or Investment

Coin collecting goes back as far as the manufacture of coins goes. Anyone can pursue this hobby. Were you that little kid that went through their parents pocket change hoping to find that rare coin? It is fascinating how diverse collections can be. Coins are found in many different categories. You can either focus on collecting ancient coins belonging to one country or collect coins belonging to different countries.

Taking coin collecting even further, the collection can even be based on a particular series, a particular type set, a particular dye or even a particular grade of coin. There are also those that are collecting coins that have errors due to the dies used, uneven designs, double strikes, and re-punched mints sometimes turn out to be worth more than their weight in gold.

Then there are those who like to only purchase very rare and expensive coins for investment purposes. Many people love to purchase brand new coins straight from the mint while others collect foreign coins only. The great thing about coin collecting is that there are no rules and everyone can collect whatever they wish. A good example of this kind of investing takes place with gold coins like the American Eagle gold coins produced by the US Mint. These coins, symbolically stamped with a face value, are worth much more as they are made with 22 karat gold. The value is in the gold in the coin.

The term Numismatics is the terminology used for the study of coin, notes, medals, but all coin collectors are not necessarily numismatists. Typcially, the kind of coins you collect and the number of coins you collect depends on how well off you are financially. It can be quite an expensive hobby because rare coins could cost a lot. In fact the coin collecting market can be likened to the stock market where the share prices plummet one day and shoot up the next. The factors that influence this could be the ordinary forces of demand and supply. Because of this, it is recommended that coins that are purchased should be done with money that you don’t need for bills, and with the idea that you are going to hold onto your coins for a while as they ride the ups and downs of the market.

Furthermore, the internet has been an amazing boon to collectors of coins the world over and collectors are able to find up to the minute information pertaining to value, rarity, and conditions of coins of all shapes and sizes. Online participation in the hobby of coin collecting is enormous, with individuals logging on to look up information about their coins, meet up on message boards, and find chat rooms where enthusiasts can get together to trade coins. There is a wealth of information available on the internet for coin collectors, and new coin collectors, so hitting the web can be a great place for starting. Part of the fun of coin collecting is the community and the social interaction with others that share the same interest. Some of the most interesting places you will find are the coin collecting forums where people discuss how to find, what they have found, and the kinds of deals that are going on.

There are coin shops and shows where you can find knowledgeable collectors who can help you find what you need and can give you advice on furthering your collection. Be wary of sellers at flea markets, antique shops, or other on-targeted markets where the seller may inflate their prices or sell problem coins to unknowledgeable customers. The same risk can come from mail order or online purchases. Knowledge is your best insurance when dealing with these dealers. Use businesses referenced in coin collecting publications or from other collectors who you trust.

Most of today’s coin collectors developed the hobby within the last twenty years. Nearly all of the commemorative coins issued in this time period has increased in value. Here are a few examples of coin investments which have some collectors smiling: the 1995 Tenth Anniversary of the American Eagle coin set (issue price $995.00, current value $3,600.00); 2000w $10 uncirculated bimetal Library of Congress coin (issue price $235.00, current value $1,100.00).

It is important to distinguish whether you are buying coins for an investment, or a hobby. The stakes tend to be higher if you are trying to buy as an investment. One thing to note is that a hobby can turn into an investment. But the kinds of coins you will buy may vary as an investment compared to a hobby. Hobbyist will buy based on emotion, and sometimes whether a coin is valuable or not, while a investor usually buys based on numbers and how much value he can get when he sells. Hobbyist typically don’t sell often, while an investor will have an exit strategy in mind and sell when the value of a coin reaches a certain level.

Visit http://eaglegoldcoinshop.com for pricing on American Eagle Gold Coins. You can find Eagle gold proof coins, and American Eagle bullion at auction pricing.

Top 3 Things to Consider When Purchasing a Starwars Trashcan from a Starwars Convention

Whether you are looking for a Starwars trashcan or any other Starwars collectors item, a Starwars convention is a great place to find many things you may not be able to find elsewhere. Starwars conventions are generally large affairs, with people coming from around the world to share their love for all things Starwars. While you will not only find a large number of people discussing various aspects of the Starwars saga, you will also find many movie and character related items up for sale. This is a great place to find a large selection of Starwars products, but before you purchase anything, there are a few things that you should consider.

Is the Item Real?

While it is rare that it will happen at such a convention, there are often people at these conventions that will sell knock-off products that may look like authentic Starwars products, but in fact are not. Before you purchase your Starwars trashcan, make sure that the product you are purchasing is authentic and not just something that was made in someones basement. It is usually very easy to tell whether an item is a knock off or not and if you are in doubt, don’t make the purchase.

Is the Price Reasonable?

With so many people looking to buy products at these conventions, sellers often will raise the price of an item and price it at more than it’s actual value. While you can’t be expected to know the actual value on all Starwars memorabilia (though some people do!) you can generally tell when something is priced too high. If the Starwars trashcan was part of a collectors personal collection, the price may reflect some sort of sentimental value that the seller has for the item. While it is understandable that a person may feel the item is very valuable emotionally, you should not have to pay for their feelings.

Is There a Guarantee on the Product?

Are items bought as is? If the product breaks soon after you purchase it, or you realize it is damaged, will the seller refund your money or exchange the item for something of equal value. Sadly, events like a convention are a great place for sellers to sell damaged items to unsuspecting victims. By the time you realize the item is damaged, they are long gone and there is no chance of getting your money refunded. If you are purchasing a collectors item such as a Starwars trashcan, make sure that you have contact information for the seller so that if the item is damaged you can contact them and try to get your money back or get your product exchanged.

You are about to enter the ultimate starwars trashcan resource….

Top 3 Things to Consider When Purchasing a Starwars Trashcan From a Starwars Festival

If you’ve been searching for the perfect Starwars trashcan to add to your Star Wars collection, try checking out a Star Wars Festival. A Star Wars Festival is a great place for those that truly love Starwars to gather. There are many different fun events that are generally planned for a Starwars Festival, and many of them often have locations set up for those that wish to buy, sell or trade Star Wars memorabilia. Before you make a purchase from one of these festivals however,there are a few things that you should consider.

3. Is the Purchase “As Is?”

Generally, when you purchase an item from one of these festivals, it is bought on an “as is” condition. This means that the item you are purchasing is bought in the condition that it is in, and if you later find something wrong with it, you have no recourse on the seller. This is one way that sellers protect themselves from having to refund money for a purchase, so it is important that you thoroughly check over your Starwars trashcan before you make your payment, to ensure that it is in a condition you find suitable.

2. Is Your Money Refundable?

Some sellers will not have an “as is” condition, but are also not willing to refund your money once a purchase has been made. Even if you purchase your Starwars trashcan, and immediately determine that it is not want you want, you will not be able to get your money back. If you are concerned about not being able to return the item should you want or need to, ask the seller if your purchase will be refundable if you are not pleased with it.

1. Are You Paying More Than the Product is Worth?

Many times, sellers at festivals such as these will try and make the most money they can from their products. This is particularly true if the have items that are well sought after and hard to find. Even so, almost all Star Wars memorabilia only has a certain value to it, so you should make sure that you are paying what the product is actually worth, and not what the seller thinks it is worth. It helps to have a good idea of the value of such products that you are looking for, such as a Starwars trashcan, but even if you do not, it is generally easy to tell when a product is being overpriced. While a person may place sentimental value on an item that they are selling, sentimental value has no place in the actual pricing of a product. Make sure that you are not paying for a persons feelings for an item, and instead are only paying for the items actual value.

You are about to enter the ultimate starwars trashcan resource….

What is an Antique Really?

You hear the term antique frequently. Did you ever wonder what the word antique actually means? Well, the word antique comes from Latin which means old. The general discussion of the word antique means it is an old collectible item. Typically, an antique is something that is collected or prize because of its age, rarity, condition, or some other special unique feature.

An antique is often representative of a specific era in our human society. A few other definitions for the term antique are an item that is at least 50-100 years old, or any piece of furniture or decorative objects that was produced in a former period. And again is valuable because of its rarity or beauty.

There is often a certain level of craftsmanship in an antique or there is a specific design element. A few examples of this would be the workmanship on an antique clock, or an antique car, or antique piece of furniture.

Antiques are typically found at antique shops, or are passed down as heirloom pieces from generation to generation. Many times, people go hunting for antiques in old shops looking for items that may have been misvalued as junk. Other places you can acquire antiques are at auctions, online through websites or at online auctions.

In addition to peoples private collections, antiques are often found in museums as many collections are expensive, and they have acquired these over time through findings and donations.

Do not confuse the word antique with the term antiquing, which means two different things. The term antiquing could mean the act of looking for, shopping for, identifying or bargaining for antiques. But, the term is also used to refer to the art of making something look as though it is an antique. In your quest for antiques do not buy items that have gone through the practice of antiquing, for they are not real.

Often, valuation of antiques can be difficult. The best way to get a good valuation of any antique is to seek the opening in of a reputable and trained antique appraiser. When looking for someone to value an antique, it is important to check references and make sure the person that is going to create the valuation specializes in the particular category of antique.

The search for and collection of antiques can be fun, profitable, and many people make a living off of the purchase and sale of antiques.

Matt loves hunting for antique store antiques. Visit http://antiquestoredealer.com, the Antique Store Dealer for items like antique wall mirrors.

Top 4 Things to Consider When Purchasing a Starwars Trashcan from a Private Collector

If you have been searching endlessly for the perfect Starwars trashcan to add to your Starwars collection, and have finally found the perfect one for sale from another private collector, make sure the purchase is legitimate before giving away your hard earned cash. There are many people who run scams offering hard to find collectibles and if you are not careful you could end up without your coveted Starwars trashcan as well as the money you paid for it.

4. Ask for Pictures

Whether you have found the Starwars trashcan you have been looking for in the newspaper or on the Internet, it is important that you ask the seller for pictures of the item that have been taken from all angles. Express to the seller that you are wanting to be able to see what the entire item looks like before you purchase. While some legitimate sellers may find this inconvenient, it is well within your best interest to make sure you get to see the pictures, or even better see the item in person, before you give them your money. This will help prevent you from purchasing a Starwars trashcan that is damaged in any way, or is not what you are really looking for.

3. Determine Your Method of Payment

Unless you are meeting the seller in person and can get a receipt from them in your hand, never ever send cash through the mail to pay for a purchase. Not only can your money get lost, but there is no record of the money and the seller can easily state that they never received your payment. Instead, use a traceable method such as check, money order or PayPal to pay for your Starwars trashcan, so that you will have proof that you have paid for your item should you need it.

2. Have Payment Arrangements Put Into Writing

Whether you make your arrangements by email or in person, have the payment arrangements put into writing so that there are no discrepancies later on. This will help to prevent the seller from coming back and saying that you did not pay the correct amount for the item, or did not pay them in the correct method of payment. Also determine whether you will be paying before your Starwars trashcan has been sent, or upon you receiving it.

1. Sign for Your Package

If you are having your Starwars trashcan shipped to you, ask the seller to send your package with delivery confirmation. This means that you will have to sign for your package in order to receive it from the delivery service. Delivery confirmation may add a few additional cents to the charge of your shipping, but it is well worth it since it will prove whether you received the package or not.

You are about to enter the ultimate starwars trashcan resource….

Coin Collecting Values! What Is Your Coin Collection Worth?

There are so many things that can affect the value of your coin collection. A lot of these are obvious like the condition your coin is in or how old it is. How many coins were produced is another item that will affect your coin collecting values. Other things to keep in mind are factors that are beyond your control such as how much desire there is for the coin you own.

While you do not have any control over all the things that affect your coin collecting values like the state of our economy there are many things you can watch out for. The more knowledgeable of a coin collector you become the easier it will become to spot the winners.

Here are a few things you could keep an eye on when determining your coin collection value.

Learning how to grade your coins should be a top priority. You can and should seek the services of a professional coin grader if you are not certain of your ability to properly grade your coins. However there are a few simple steps you can take to determine your coin value. You should start with a through visual inspection. Try to decide where your coin will rank in the coin grading system.

Age is a general factor to keep in mind when determining your coins value. Generally speaking a very old coin will be worth more than a modern day coin. This does not factor in things like wear, where it was minted, the history of the coin or other essential pieces of information.

How rare the coin is has much to do with its value. It stands to reason that if there are not a large number of a coin to be had it will bring a higher price than one that can be found easily. Usually the less a certain coin was produced the more bucks it will bring if you decide to sell it.

Coins that were produced with errors or flaws in them are generally considered more collectible in the coin collecting market. Things like double-strikes or file marks can determine the coins value.

Coins that have visible wear or a defect such as nicks or scratches will often not be worth as much as the same coin in mint condition. Use common sense and experience to decide whether a defect is a profit producing error or if the coin is just worn.

There will always be fads that will come and go away. Sometimes your coins will bring you more profit than other times. This is not under your control so do the best you can and sell your coins when conditions are best if you can.

Do your research and you will find yourself being able to more accurately determine your coin collecting values.

For more information all about coin collecting values visit http://www.find-coins.com where will find useful tips, articles and resources to help you find old coins.

How To Value Coins Using A Coin Value Guide

One of the most important pieces of information that a coin collector will want to know is how much a coin is worth. By knowing what a coin is worth will affect what they are willing to pay or sell it for. Plus it will help you to look and appreciate your coins much more. There are plenty of US coin value guides available both off and online. But some are certainly more accurate than others. However, what should be remembered is no one guide is foolproof. All the guides available will only provide you with an approximation of the market value and actual coin prices. So if you really want to know the market you should also see what coins are actually selling for.

A great place to look for such information is on auction sites such as eBay as well as various auction houses such as Heritage, Teletrade, Bowers and Merena and Stacks to name a few. Also you could take a look in your local and national coin shows as well as local coin shops to see what prices they have. But below are details of some of the more common US coin value guides that are in use today.

1. US Coin Digest
This is much like the Red Book but it includes coin pricing for more grades. Where in the Red Book has only pricing for six grades of the Morgan Dollars in the US Coin Digest it has pricing for 11 grades. It also contains a bit more background information in relation to coins in general.

2. Greysheet
This is officially called the Coin Dealer Newsletter and is an expensive subscription periodical ($98 per year). It is most commonly used price guide to be used by dealers when setting their own prices. However, it does contain wholesale prices also (so it is a wise choice for the more savvy collectors out there). The prices in this are based on coins graded according to industry standards. But they also include pricing for properly graded raw coins when compiling their figures. However, the biggest weakness of this publication is that it ignores the current state of grading services.

3. Numismedia Price Guide
This is an online service and is similar to the PCGS Price Guide. But the prices on this site can be somewhat higher than those that appear in printed guides. However, this site has been a subscription service since 2003 and costs $96 per year for you to be able to see the pricing of grades above MS-60.

So as you can see from above there are plenty of different US coin value guides available not just in book format but also online also.

For more information all about coin collecting values visit http://www.find-coins.com where will find useful tips, articles and resources to help you find old coins.

What Needs To Be Considered When Providing An Estimate Of Value On A Rare Coin

When dealers are looking at a rare coin value estimate there are a number of things that they will need to take into account. In this article we will look at the things that such dealers will consider when estimating the value of a rare coin.

Age
Although generally speaking the older a coin is then the more it is worth. However, but this may not be the case.

Condition
Unfortunately a coin which is badly corroded and you are unable to tell what it is will not actually be worth much. But in more recent coins the fine degrees of condition can mean the difference between coins being valuable or it is just a curiosity.

Metal Content
As we all know the coins that contain high amounts of gold or silver are more valuable than those that contain copper, nickel or zinc. But there is always an exception to the rules and in some cases there may be a very rare copper coin that can be worth lot more than some more common silver coins.

Rarity
This is probably the single most important trait when valuing a rare coin. Sometimes coins that contain mistakes are often the most valued. As mistakes do not happen very often and are often quickly caught by the mint if such a coin does make it into circulation with a mistake then it can be worth a lot.

Country
Unfortunately in America there is not much of a market for world money. In fact they are more of a curiosity rather than a commodity to many coin collectors in the US. But if you are not collecting coins for their monetary value then collecting world coins can be a lot of fun.

Personal Preference
This should not be ignored. Although one coin may be priceless to one person it may mean nothing to someone else. There are many collectors who collect particular coins because of their sentimental value (it may have been a gift from either a friend or a relative).

Market Value
If there happens to be a high demand for a coin at any one time and if you happen to be selling one then you are more than likely going to get a good price for it. But just like fashions coins go in and out of style. So if you have a coin that is out of favor at the moment hold on to it until it comes back into fashion. The coins that tend to fluctuate the most are those made with precious metals.

But when looking at a rare coin value estimate it is best if you leave this to an expert. Such people are better able to judge the market more accurately and will be able to tell you when is the best time to buy or sell a certain coin.

For more information on how to value coins using a coin value guide visit http://www.find-coins.com where will find useful tips, articles and resources to help you find old coins.

Coin Collection Folders Help Protect Your Valuable Coin Collection

Many people start collecting coins because they really enjoy hunting down old coins and because of the satisfaction the hobby brings when you find that rare old coin. Once you have located that great find most people will want to do everything they can to protect the coin from harm. This is so important to the serious coin collector they will probably want to store their old money in one of the many coin collection folders.

Coin collection folders are not hard to locate and in most cases do not cost all that much. The most important feature of a coin folder you need to ask yourself is will it do the job and protect my old coins. You need to decide whether the coins will be easy enough to put in, and to remove from the folder.

Before you decide to purchase any coin collection folder you must make sure your needs will be met. There are a few things to consider before making a coin folder purchase.

There are a lot of different designs out there and many of them are made to hold more than one type of coin. You can put different denominations of coins in some of the coin collection folders. There will normally be some various size slots to accommodate the many coins you may own. The ports should be made from a material that will not damage your old coins. This can not be stressed enough, be sure the material the ports are made of will not hurt your collection.

The coin folder should have a cover made of a durable, sturdy material. Do not cut corners here, as you want something that will stand the test of time. Some of the better folders may have the type of collection and other important information on the cover. This outside cover can make or break your decision to buy. The inside of the coin folder should contain an adequate number of pages to store your collection.

You want to make sure your coin collection is not hard to store and there is a lot of space underneath the coin to provide myself information on each coin. You should purchase a folder with plenty of extra pages for any new coins you may acquire in the future. If you collect foreign coins you should make sure there are places provided to store these coins as well.

Storing your coin collection in a coin folder may be one of the better ways to keep your coins out of harms way. You can be as careful as you want and take every precaution but accidents can and will happen. Pick out one of the many coin collection folders available that you think will provide the most protection for your most valuable possessions.

For more information on old rare coin value visit http://www.find-coins.com where will find useful tips, articles and resources to help you find old coins.

How to Assemble a Liberty Head V Nickel Collection

The Liberty Nickel series makes a challenging, yet very doable, series to complete. The Liberty Nickel, commonly known as the “V” nickel for the Roman Numeral “V” on the reverse was officially produced from 1883 to 1912.

Before you embark on your mission of completing a set of this series, you must first decide what type of collection you want to assemble and what your budget will be. For example, a complete collection of all coins from 1883 to 1912 (33 coins) retails for around $1000.00 in G4 condition. Up the condition to XF-40 and expect to pay over $4500. Up the collection to MS60 and the retail price is nearly $8,500. If you just want the best quality, then look for MS65 which would retail for $62,000. That is quite a range. While it is unlikely that your set will contain each coin in the exact same grade, this does give you an example of how much increasing the quality can cost. In the XF-40 range, 4 or 5 of the coins will set you back $100 while the majority of the coins can be had for under $30.00. If budget is an issue, you could collect the majority of the more common coins in a higher grade and acquire the keys in a lower grade and then upgrade as your budget allows.

You could also attempt to put together a collection of just proof coins. This set would consist of 31 coins and would retail for about $20,000 in MS65 condition. Collecting proofs in the Liberty Nickel series can be tough yet rewarding. Proofs were minted for every year of existence for the “V” nickel. Proofs in PR65 condition can run in the $500 plus range for most years with the 1885 running upwards of $1500. Production usually numbered in the thousands for each year, which was an unusually high number for the period.

For this article, we will assume you have a tight budget and like most collectors you will need to sacrifice quality for the pricier coins. So, how do you get started? The easiest and fastest way is to start with the common dates. This can give you some instant satisfaction that you are on your way. Within the Liberty Nickel series, the dates from 1897 to 1912-D can be had for around $2.00 or less in G4 but will cost $30.00 a piece in the XF-40 range. If you are after the low cost coins simply buying a roll of nickels will most likely yield all but a few dates from 1897 to 1912-D thus lowering your price per coin with a few left over. You can also find deals such as Starter Sets that will include a certain number of different coins. These will commonly be in AG-3 to VG-8 grades. Beyond this, it is unlikely you will find unsearched hoards so you will need to buy coins outside of this range individually.

In order to complete the series, three coins may give you trouble. The 1885, 1886 and 1912 S are the lowest mintage. The 1885 had a mintage of over 1.5 million but will still set you back at least $500 in a grade around G4. The 1886 had a mintage of 3.3 million and will cost around $250 in a G4 grade. The 1912-S specimen had the lowest mintage by far of just 238,000. As this was the first Liberty Nickel from San Francisco, as well as the last of the series, it was probably saved a little bit more than the older issues as it may have been recognized for its low mintage. Even with a mintage of just 1/6 of the most expensive 1885 piece, the 1912-S can be had for around $150 around a G4 grade.

Finding these tougher dates may prove to be somewhat challenging depending where you look. Surprisingly, there are very few dealers advertising Liberty Nickels in national publications such as Coins Magazine. Those that I did find were asking above retail for 1885 and 1886 type coins. A quick search on the internet did yield several dealers that had the scarcest dates in stock. Yet again, they were asking above retail for the scarcest dates. I suspect if I walked into my local coin dealer, s/he would also be asking above retail for the 1885 and 1886 issue. So what does that leave you? If you are a gambler, there is always eBay. A quick search of eBay yield several 1885 specimens to choose from. Please see my article on eBay buying tips if you are an eBay novice to prevent getting ripped off. While the coins on eBay are typically overgraded, you can still get what you want if you are careful.

Collecting Liberty V Nickels can be a truly rewarding experience. In just a few short years, every coin in this series will be at least 100 years old bring extra pleasure to the collector knowing that s/he has something that is a small part of history of the United States of America.

Happy Collecting!

Keith Scott has been a collector for over 30 years. His website has US coins for sale. He also writes Coin Collecting Articles for fun. Visit his websites for a history of US coins, metal market updates and news about your favorite coins.

How Can I Buy Coins on eBay Without Getting Ripped Off?

EBay is the topic of many conversations in the coin collecting community. Amongst the collector community is the question of can I buy coins on eBay without getting ripped off. The answer is unequivocally YES. The caveat is to proceed with caution. In this article we will explore the things to look for to find honest sellers so that you can protect your self. Here are several tips to keep you from getting ripped off and bidding on auctions that are with worthy sellers

User Feedback: While it seems obvious you want to deal with someone who has a high user feedback, the fact is that this area can be quite misleading. How? Many people who buy coins and then feel ripped off are for some reason reluctant to leave negative feedback for fear they will also receive negative feedback. When looking for a reputable coin dealer on eBay, feedback ratings can be a useful guide, but dig a little deeper. A dealer/seller with 10,000 positive feedbacks does NOT mean s/he is a good dealer. Read the feedback. Not just the negative feedbacks but the positive as well. Many positive feedback entries will have underlying negative information in them that could clue you into how the dealer treats others or the quality of the merchandise s/he sells. For example, a recent positive feedback entry for a seller stated: Grading seems off mark but happy with deal and easy to work with CO. Thanks. Another positive feedback for a different seller stated: Not quite as expected but OK for the price. These particular dealers have thousands of positive ratings but the ratings are rife with negative connotations in the positive feedback. Check for statements such as slow shipping, not packaged well, not like picture, not as described, etc.

Dealer Business or One Time Seller: Is the seller you are looking at a long-time eBay seller or someone that is trying out eBay to sell their inherited collection? Actually, this area may not make much difference as there are some long-time dealers who I think are crooks while I have been able to pick up some good deals from new sellers. But beware, short-term sellers/new sellers may be looking to unload some junk, take you for your money and then not deliver.

Shipping Policies: Some sellers will attempt to hide the shipping cost and will ultimately overcharge for shipping for extra profit. This of course is disguised as Shipping/Handling. All sellers will charge for shipping and handling, it is the degree to which they will charge. For example, I have seen sellers charge $7.00 for shipping a $2.00 penny with insurance being extra Always pay close attention to the shipping charges as well as the method of shipping. Some dealers will only ship UPS adding significant cost to you. Generally speaking, insurance is not included in many transactions. Please note, it does cost dealers for the packing materials, trips to the post office, etc. Many dealers will look to handling charges to offset some of the fees they have to pay to eBay. Sellers can pay anywhere around 10% of the selling price for listing fees, transaction fees, final valuation fees, etc.

Return Policies: An important factor to determine before bidding on an auction is to read the fine print, especially return policies. Return policies vary from no returns at all to full return privileges. Some sellers will offer you the option to return an item but will NOT reimburse shipping charges. If you bought a $2.00 coin and paid $7.00 for shipping, you are out the $7.00.

Assigning a Grade: Many dealers will suggest a grade for the coin they are selling. It is easy to overgrade a coin, as you always hope for the best. Some sellers will make statements such as “It looks like a MS-65 but I am not an expert.” Others will make a statement such as, “I am not a coin grader but it looks good to me.” Another good one is stating they are of average circulation. Average circulation means many different things to many different people. Average circulation for Barber Halves means they are all in AG-3 or so while average circulation for Franklin Halves would indicate they should be a higher grade as they are less worn. Be wary of these descriptions. It is unfortunate, but many so called uncalculated coins selling on eBay are AU-55 or AU-58.

Graded Coins: Most people feel safe when buying a graded coin. The feeling is that since it is graded by a third party, I should be getting what I am bidding on. NOTE: All grading companies are not created equal. There are some sellers on eBay that sells tons of coins that are graded MS-70. If you really research the feedback on these items you will find out that in the opinion of many of the buyers, many of the coins are no where near MS-70. If you research further, you will find out the seller is the person/company that also is the grading company.

Contacting the Seller: If you find a coin you want and the auction does not end for a few days; try contacting the seller for more info. Do they respond quickly and with the information you want?

Item Description: Read the description over and over to look for the slightest deception. For example, when buying bags of wheat cents, a common statement is “unsearched by me”. That’s great. Maybe his buddy searched them, or he bought them as searched. I would stay away from that item. Also, match the description to the picture. People do make mistakes. If you see a picture of a Morgan Dollar with a mint mark of “S” but the description says it is a “CC”, contact the seller. If you do not get a response, stay clear.

Photos: If you are buying a valuable coin, do not consider buying it unless there are clear pictures, for both the observe and reverse. Yes, this applies to even PCGS graded coins. A MS-66 graded Walking Liberty Half might sound like an absolutely beautiful coin, but if it has ugly toning, maybe it is not the coin for you. Be wary of any high value coin that does not have clear close up pictures. A trick of many bad dealers is to intentionally have pictures that are slightly out of focus or at a bad angle to hide certain scratches or abnormalities.

Dealer Memberships: Many dealers will lay claim to belong to various clubs and organizations. Many of these claims will not guarantee that the dealer is honest. I can claim I belong to any club I want. That does not mean that I actually belong to it. Additionally, membership in many clubs does not require anything more than an email address. On the other hand, if the dealer claims to be a member of ANA, that could be better as ANA dealers are bound by a certain code of ethics.

Buying coins on eBay is a risky business, but by using these tips, the risk is no more than buying coins from your local dealer or by mail order. There are crooks in the coin profession at all levels. You must be on guard at all times to protect yourself and by exercising caution, you can be assured you are getting and paying for what you think you are.

As always, happy collection!

Keith Scott has been a collector for over 30 years. His website has US coins for sale. He also writes Coin Collecting Articles for fun. Visit his websites for a history of US coins, metal market updates and news about your favorite coins.

History of the Liberty ‘V’ Nickel

The Liberty Nickel, commonly known as the “V” nickel for the Roman Numeral “V” on the reverse was officially produced from 1883 to 1912. We use the word officially because one of the most famous coins of all is the 1913 Liberty Nickel which was produced under suspect circumstances. For more on the famous 1913 Liberty Nickel please refer to the article titled “History of the Famous 1913 Liberty Nickel”.

In 1881, A. Loudon Snowden, Superintendent of the Philadelphia Mint directed Chief Engraver at the time, Charles Barber, to create designs for the cent, three-cent piece and the nickel. Snowden believed that all three coins should be similar in design and metal composition. The designs created by Barber were all simple in appearance with Lady Liberty on the obverse and a Roman Numeral I, III or V on the reverse to represent the denomination. Barber completed the request later that year with all three coins stuck in copper-nickel which was the same as the Shield Nickel currently in circulation. The Shield Nickel, introduced in 1866, was the first “nickel” sized coin. The half-dime, made of silver, had previously filled the need for this denomination. The Shield Nickel was well received despite the fact that during this time period, consumers liked their coinage in silver and/or gold. And although the nickel was relatively new, its bland design made it ripe for a redesign. Additionally, during this time period, there was not yet a federal law establishing the minimum life expectancy for US coin designs.

Changing the cent, three-cent piece and nickel was not to be. Congress opposed a change in composition to the cent and the Treasury would not approve a design change for the three-cent piece. The three-cent silver piece has been discontinued several years before and the three-cent nickel, with the exception of 1881 had seen declining mintage numbers. With the nickel seeming to be the only viable option for change, Barber and Snowden concentrated on making the change to the nickel a reality. In addition to a design/appearance change, Snowden also changed the size from 20.5 mm in diameter to 21.2 mm. Snowden believed that by increasing the diameter and reducing the thickness (the weight stayed the same), die life would be extended.

After all the finishing touches were complete, there was a special ceremony on January 30th, 1883 to introduce the new nickel. Those who attended, and were deemed important, received first strike coins. A few days later, regular production began. The new nickels had hardly been circulated when a major problem surfaced. The coin did not contain the word “cents” and con artists of the day were plating the nickel with gold and passing them off as $5.00 gold pieces. Because the nickel was still new, the general public was not aware of the new nickel and since the “V” was the only symbol of value, it could mean 5 cents or 5 dollars. Unfortunately for the mint, nearly 5

Top Tips for the Stamp Collector

Stamps. You put them on a letter you want to mail, or a bill you need to pay. Once in a while, if it is a birthday or Valentine`s Day card, you will request a special picture on the stamp, a cake or a heart, perhaps. However, to some, stamps are more than just mere postage.

If you are looking to add to your stamp collection or start one, make sure you are getting what you are paying for, here a few tips to help.

Make sure you examine the postmark date on the envelope, or what is visible on the postmark on the stamp. This often plays a role in determining a stamp`s value. What is the stamps face value? Some denominations are rarer than others and of course, the more rare, the more valuable. Check the frame between the central design of the stamp and the surrounding perforations, the holes that separate one stamp from another on a sheet. Is the design centered? If it was printed off center, you may have a more valuable stamp.

Study the perforation teeth, the stamp`s jagged edges. Use a perforation gauge, which measures the number of holes for each 2 centimeters of surface area; the perforation number is one factor that determines the stamp`s value. Study the margin, or unprinted area, around a stamp; again, is the design centered? Examine the vignette, or central design, of the stamp. Check for color alterations and fading. Use a magnifying glass to examine the stamp closely. Check for creases, tears, uneven perforation teeth, vivid colors, frail paper, and the quality of gum on the backing and signs of repair on the surface. All of these contribute to the collectablity of the stamp.

The grading scale for stamps is similar to that of other collectibles: Mint condition stamps have never been used, are perfectly centered, and have vivid colors, the original adhesive gum on the back, and no creases or tears. The succeeding grades are Extremely Fine, Very Fine, Fine, Very Good, and Good. Labels often accompany stored stamps. These include Never Hinged, NH, Original Gum, OG, Lightly Hinged, LH, and Hinge Remnants, HR. Always check stamp price guides for more information on grading scales and handling stamps; many guides use more elaborate grading scales. Common price guides include the Scott Catalogue, and the Black book Price Guide published by the House of Collectibles.

One more quick tip, use Stamp Museum to determine how the stamp is being produced. In general, engraved stamps are very labor intensive compared to other types such as lithography. Also check out who produced the stamps, example, who is the painter, who is the engraver, etc.

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Make Yours A Gold Coin Collection

Luscious gold! Gold, which has the periodic table symbol of Au. Although we may not readily recall our high school chemistry and remember what the element Au stands for, when gold is one of the best known precious element on earth.

Gold in the history of mankind has always been the standard of wealth and prosperity. Back in the beginning of time, gold symbolizes affluence. Mankind has always been enthralled by this precious metal through the wearing of jewelry, of precious love through a wedding ring, or of wealth as demonstrated by stories of gold bullion hoarded or stolen.
In the present day, gold is considered by many to be a safe investment amongst the dizzying array of financial investment tools. Today’s market stocks rise and fall in response to economic forecasts, company performances, and world situations. The risks are generally high. Only gold can hold its weight on its own and can not be influenced as much as the world situations.

One way to do gold investing is to start gold coin collecting. The value of your collection are determined on the coin’s condition, the history and their uniqueness.

Plus, there are other specific financial benefits to gold coin collecting:

Inherent Value

Gold has historically been the de-facto standard that reflects wealth since the beginning of time, and this is true both for the individual, as well as the nations of the world. The value of gold is inherent in this precious metal as gold continues to play a key role as part of the reserves held by central banks, nations and supranational organizations such as the IMF.

Gold cannot be duplicated or be manufactured by man as it is a resource and often, when stocks rise and fall, the value and steadiness of gold remains constant. Besides, gold is durable and cannot be created nor can it be destroyed; therefore, collecting gold coins is an exciting and fairly secure investment.

Portfolio

So how should you determine your portfolio? Gold coin collecting is financially characterized as being a safe and steady investment. The best part is that it is easily transferable into immediate cash based on its being legal tender.

Again do note that as with any other investment there are risks based on market fluctuations. However, gold coins have traditionally been strong performers and have provided good returns on the investment. Thus through gold coin collecting, you allow some diversity in your investments portfolio and it also adds a safety net through the historical and consistent value placed on gold.

Tax Benefits

Well what do you know! Gold coin collecting actually is a legal way to defer taxation on your investment. What this means is that as your return on this investment increases, your investment is not subject to taxes until those coins are liquidated or sold. Only then when those profits realized are then subject to capital gains taxes. In addition, there are no taxes imposed if you choose to take your gold coin collecting to the level of exchanging or trading your collection for an equal or higher valued coin collection.

Gold coin collecting is not only a fun and interesting hobby but it is also a rewarding one that can bring you handsome returns. However, you must do your research before you embark on any investment.

Lesley is the webmaster of Coin Collecting Resource. Visit the website today to discover interesting facts and tips in all aspects regarding this fascinating hobby of coin collecting.

History of the Famous 1913 Liberty Nickel

The Liberty Nickel, commonly known as the “V” nickel for the Roman Numeral “V” on the reverse was officially produced from 1883 to 1912. We use the word officially because one of the most famous coins of all is the 1913 Liberty Nickel which was produced under suspect circumstances.

Sometime well after normal production stopped for the Liberty Nickel series, a few 1913 Liberty Nickels surfaced. In December 1919, Samuel W. Brown put an advertisement in The Numismatist offering to pay $500 for 1913 Liberty Nickels. It is a known fact that he was the first person to advertise for this date. It turns out; Brown was employed by the mint at the time of the suspected minting of the 1913 coins. He worked in the coining department. Although no one now knows for sure how the 1913 coins were produced, there are a couple theories:

It is speculated that the coins were produced in late 1912 when dies for the next years coinage were being made, and before it was decided that 1913 would be the introduction of the Buffalo Nickel.

The coins could have been produced early January 1913. The first “experimental” Buffalo Nickels were struck on January 7th, 1913 but production did not take place until February 15, due to various design problems. It would not have been unusual for someone in the Medal Department of the Mint to strike a few examples for cabinet/display purposes. Since the Buffalo Nickel was not yet officially approved, striking a few Liberty Nickels would not have been illegal.

While no one knows for sure how Brown came into possession of the nickels, it is possible that he received them from engraver George T. Morgan, who produced rarities upon occasion for sale to dealers. Considering the effort required to produce them, such as making the dies, preparing the machinery and then finally striking the coins, it is amazing that no-one came forward to claim participation or to profit from the coins.

After running the ad, Brown displayed the nickels in 1920 at an ANA convention. Now the word was out, 1913 Liberty Nickels actually existed. A few years later, a prominent coin dealer of the time, B. Max Mehl or Fort Worth, TX, advertised to pay $50 a piece for a 1913 Liberty Head Nickel. He knew he would never get one though. He was a marketing genius and as a result of his advertisements, coin collecting became all the rage and his publication, Star Rare Coin Encyclopedia sold very well. People began checking there change in hopes of finding the coin. To this day though, only 5 have ever surfaced and it is believed that the five known, are the only ones in existence.

In January 1924, August Wagner, a Philadelphia coin dealer advertised for sale the five nickels presumably on behalf of Samuel Brown. From there, they have had a host of owners. Until recently, one of the 5 pieces (the Walton Coin) had been missing for 40 years. Mr. Walton-a dealer, would take his coin to shows along with a duplicate. On his way to a show he was killed in a car wreck and his coins were scattered on the roadside. His heirs did get his coins back, but were never sure if the 1913 Liberty Nickel coin they had was the fake or the original. A major dealership once called the real coin a fake. In 2003 at the ANA Show, the coin was authenticated by several experts and the mystery of the missing coin ended. It was also at this convention that all 5 1913 Liberty Nickels were displayed together for the first time since 1920.

How famous is the 1913 Liberty Nickel? It was the first coin to sell for over one-million dollars. It was also featured on the old show Hawaii Five-0.

Keith Scott has been a collector for over 30 years. His website has US coins for sale. He also writes Coin Collecting Articles for fun. Visit his websites for a history of US coins, metal market updates and news about your favorite coins.

The History of the 1943 Steel Cent

From 1909 to 1942, the Lincoln Cent was composed of 95% copper and 5% tin and zinc. That all changed in 1943, as for the first and only time, a coin was made out of steel, which was quite a contradiction from gold, silver, copper or bronze.

Even before the United States entered the war, there were inklings that the cent, as well as the nickel were in trouble. The nickel was made out of 75% copper. Copper was in huge demand due to its use by defense contractors in the manufacturing process of various supplies and equipment needed in case of the US going to war.

After the attack on Pearl Harbor, the rumors only grew and in January 1942, The Numismatic Scrapbook Magazine reported that Treasury officials were giving serious consideration to using different metal contents for some coins. The first step occurred on January 23rd, 1942, when the Treasury ordered the removal of all but a trace of tin from the cent from the already small amount that had been in use. The existing supply of strips and planchets were used and it is speculated that cents produced in 1942 were produced of both metal compositions. This small change was expected to save 100,000 pounds of tin.

Throughout 1942, there were repeated attempts and pleas to the public to turn in their cents and nickels. Even with these pleas, the shortages continued and for the last six months of the year the mint scaled back production of cents and nickels. During this time, experiments were conducted with various metal compositions, fibers, plastics and even glass.
On December 18, 1942, Public Law 77-815 was enacted. This law called for the melting of more silver dollars and for the authorization of metal substitutes for the one cent and five cent coins not to go beyond December 31st, 1946. The nickel had already seen its change utilizing more silver in its content. The Treasury wasted no time and on December 23, 1942, Treasury Secretary Henry Morgenthau, Jr. ordered that all cents produced after January 1st 1943 be comprised of low-carbon steel coated with zinc. The zinc plating was to provide a thin coating to prevent rust and was to be no more than .001 inches thick. The same diameter of coin was maintained, but the weight was reduced from the standard 48 grains to 42 grains, due to the use of a lighter alloy. It took some time to produce sufficient supplies of planchets and production commenced on February 23, 1943 at the Philadelphia Mint with the Denver and San Francisco Mints beginning production the next month.

On February 27th, the first delivery of cents was made to the Treasury and within a few weeks, the steel cents were in circulation. Although the Treasury Department assured the public that the coin, after being in circulation for a while, would gain a distinct appearance, many people noticed the color resemblance of a dime. Complaints continued to pour into the Treasury. For example, due to there magnetic property, many mechanical devices treated the new cent as a slug. Back then, there were quite a few uses for the cent and this was a big deal.

The new cent was so much hated by the public that the Treasury was moved to issue them only when bronze-copper cents were not available. Still, demand for cents for business was so great, that the public was forced to use them as that was what was available. In the fall of 1943, the Treasury announced that no steel cents would be produced after December 31, 1943 and that the mint would produce cents from the pre-war alloy, but without tin. These cents, from 1944 through 1946 were to be known as shell-case cents, as the metal generally came from spent shell-casings. It was also announced that there would be no recall of the steel cent.
After the war, the Treasury did begin recalling steel cents for the next 20 years. Although not publicized, coins were to be returned to the treasury in the normal course of business. By 1950, steel cents were becoming scarce and by 1960, nearly non-existent. By this time, steel cents had deteriorated quite a bit. The Mint had coated the steel strips before punching leaving the edge of the coin subject to rust and corrosion. Even though a recall was in effect, the Mints own records indicate over 930 million remained in circulation.

By the end of 1943, the three Mint facilities had produced 1,093,838,670 of the one-cent coins. The copper released for the war effort was enough to meet the combined needs of 2 cruisers, 2 destroyers, 1,243 flying fortresses, 120 field guns and 120 howitzers, or enough for 1.25 million shells for our big field guns.

Keith Scott has been a collector for over 30 years. His website has US coins for sale. He also writes Coin Collecting Articles for fun. Visit his websites for a history of US coins, metal market updates and news about your favorite coins.

Your Coin Collection Is Worth How Much?

Ever wondered? I bet you do every time you look at your collection.

Coin collecting can be a very lucrative hobby. If you are a serious investor in coin collecting or have been coin collecting for some time now, you definitely will want to know what your coins are approximately worth. This usually happens when you are ready to buy that unique coin or when the time is right to sell a coin.

There are numerous factors to consider when evaluating how much your coin collection is worth. Three main criterias are :
1. The condition of the coin
2. The demand for the coin
3. The series

There are many resources available to help you in this process, but it is important to know that they are just a guide. The range of coin collecting prices is valuable information to be privy to since price knowledge will aid in purchasing the coin at the correct price, selling a coin without losing money and a healthy respect for that coin in knowing its worth. There are some free resources for ascertaining coin collecting prices. This include websites that provide broad based information, coin research and ancient coins.

Broad Based Informational Websites
As the name suggests, these websites are all encompassing meaning they offer only an approximation of coin collecting prices. These are usually free to register and to access the information. Usually the reflected prices are those from transactions that were conducted both in the wholesale market, as well as through auctions. These coin collecting prices are not exclusively from this company’s auctions but reflect other coin prices.

Research Websites
Coin collecting prices can also be researched at various websites which offer such online services. Again these websites require registration prior to gaining access to the website at no cost. Often, the coin collecting prices reflected are based solely on the auctions conducted by the company that sponsors the website.

If you go to one of these sites, coin collecting prices can be researched using the several factors which includes the coin’s face value, the year of production, the minting location, grade, and slab.

Ancient Coins
Some other websites also provide users to value unique collections. These type of websites provide coin collecting prices but they mainly concentrate on ancient coins, such as Celtic, Byzantine, Roman, and Greek coinage.

Other similar websites that focus on providing coin collecting prices can be viewed for ancient coins, and these prices are reflected through auctions held in Europe. One caution in regards to the pricing reflected on this website is that the coins typically are higher priced coins as compared to other websites.

Do your research not only online but offline as well by going to trade shows, your local shops and stick around collectors like yourself to get a realistic price range.

Lesley is the webmaster and writes articles like Determining Coin Collecting Pricesfor the Coin Collecting Resource website. Visit the website to discover interesting facts and tips in all aspects regarding this fascinating hobby of coin collecting.

Custom Knife Collecting - The System

Five years ago. Michael Donato and Richard Mattei made a business decision. They were introduced to handmade custom knives and found a career.

When the 28-year-old Donato and business partner Richard Mattei chose to invest in hand-made knives and earn their living as purveyors, it quickly became clear that their money was precious.

In order to discern the best values and build inventory that would be attractive to buyers. Donato and Mattei developed a “system” for making the right knife choices.

“In order to be successful in any venue, you really need a game plan,” Michael explained, “and as a purveyor we took money out of our own pockets and wanted to invest as wisely as possible.

Since there are so many makers we wanted to differentiate between those who have extraordinary talent and those who don’t– and whose work we wanted to showcase at knife shows and in an open forum available to the public.

It’s also important to be an educator to your clientele and show them who a certain knife maker is and why we choose to display his or her work. This is why we created the system.”

3 Basic Principles

Michael’s system rests on three basic principles:
1. The influence a knife maker has on other makers;
2. The maker’s design must meet the collectors demand; and;
3. The fit and finish must be of the highest quality.

“When I started in the knife industry I was looking at many knife makers and the knives that caught my eye had common attributes,” “The knife has to be symmetrical, both open and closed,” Donato related. “It has to be well balanced and appealing to the eye.

Every knife should have personality. It should be one of a kind. I will always handle the knife to experience the way it opens and closes, walks and talks”. The fit and finish, Mattei asserts, is the single most important factor in judging a knife maker’s proficiency.” This will determine the difference between a $700 and a $2,000 knife,” he said. “Fit and finish is considered the final presentation, which showcases the maker’s work ethic and skill.

The knife will be perfect if the blade drops dead center on a folder, the grind lines are mirrored, presentation-grade matched scales are used in the handle, the seams are tight, the lines are nice, and the action is silky smooth.” Joe Kious, Scott Sawby, Warren Osborne, and Jeff Harkins are in my opinion some of the finest knife makers today.

When you examine their knives, they receive high grades in all of the above attributes. Other makers of this quality include, Stephen Olszewski, Steve Hill, Owen Wood, Don Hanson III and Tom Overeynder.

Efforts to educate and promote handmade knife collecting keep the industry fresh and alive. Borrowing from existing approaches and adding some of its creator’s own touches; Michael Donato’s and Richard Mattei’s system is a positive addition and enhances the overall experience.

Michales Amazing System Will Teach You About:

Custom Knives |
Collecting Custom Knives |
Custom Knife Catalogue

Your Must-Know Guide To American Coin Collecting

There are many types of coins to collect but you have decided to chose to specialize in American coins. But do you know that within American coins, there are several areas within American coin collecting which you need to choose from? Yes, although this may seem like a strange thing, since having chosen a specialization on American coin, you may wonder what specialization are there. Well, be surprised! There are well over two hundred years of history to American coins for collecting, and several denominations, so there really are a lot of choices to make! But generally there are two areas which you can consider :

1. Period of American Coins To Collect

There are several periods of American coins, and the different periods meant there are a variety of differences of the coins. This may include different denominations, different materials used, which may affect your decision, so ultimately it is important to do your research and where your interest lies. One example is that the American penny wasn’t always made of copper, and the quarters used to be made of solid silver. To pick these periods of these very special coins can make a huge difference in their value.

Sometimes collecting coins that belong to a certain period in time may meant more as a symbol of that period. Many people are like this, rather than collecting American coins for themselves, they look to them to memorialize an event or a particular period. One good example is in World War II, certain metals were more scarce than usual, and had to be substituted in the coins produced during this period. Thus this makes the coins during that period a symbol of the war effort, from the scrap metal drives to the rationing.

It comes down to your personal preferences which period is best for you to choose. Think of your interests. Look to any particular historic event that might really catch your interest, whether it is the turn of the century, the World Wars, or even the modern ages. Do you already have a period in mind?

2. Special Denomination of American Coins To Collect

The denominations of the coins are just as special as the various. Do you know that each denomination has gone through a series of changes. This ranged from the design to the very metal that the coin is made from.

To illustrate, let’s take a look at the quarter. A quick glance at the quarter shows an interesting history. History has shown that quarters made before 1964 were solid silver, this gives them a special value as they are also of higher value due to the precious metal. Then in the 1970’s when man first walked on the moon, the United States made special coins with a commemorative obverse to commemorate the event. Similarly, in 1976, the bicentennial was commemorated in the same way. The changes have continued to the present day with the celebrated state quarters. These coins were designed to mark each state in the order it joined the union.

Here in this article has just been a quick overview, and there are many more areas to be explored in American coin collecting. However, it is quite impossible to be collecting coins from all areas, unless of course you are a millionaire. What you should do is to identify your interests before deciding on which area you wish to specialize in.

Visit the website to discover interesting facts and tips about coin and currency collecting.

Fascinating British Coin Collecting With A Feel of Nostalgia

Tremendous number of books and journals have been published since the 1800s on British Coin collecting hobby. That shows how long this hobby has been around and how highly regarded it is by many numismatists all over the world.

A few of these esteemed books are
- British Silver Coins Since 1816 by Peter J. Davies
- Coincraft’s Standard Catalogue of English and UK Coins 1066 to Date by R. Lobel, M. Davidson, E. Calligas and A. Hailstone
- The British Bronze Coinage 1860-1869 by Michael Gouby
- English Silver Coinage Since 1649 by P. Allan Rayner

Apart from these well-known books, there are also some journals / magazines that come up with sets of precious information regarding the coins of Great Britain and British coin collecting. A few of these more popular journals or magazines are Collecting Coins For Pleasure and Profit (Krause), Coins of England and United Kingdom (Spink), Collectors Coins, British Coins Market Value, and etc..

For the dedicated and specialized numismatists all over the world, the British coin collecting activity has become a craze just like the hobby of collecting American coins. There is a lot to learn about the British coin collecting hobby and the British coin itself, as it is a vast subject and should be taken very seriously. Thus the above mentioned books and journals are bound to come in handy to the dedicated collectors of British coins

Rare British coins like the two pound coin of Great Britain are of tremendous value. The two pound coin of Great Britain has become so rare that some crazy collectors were so desperate that they had spread rumors all around the United Kingdom in order to acquire all the British two pound coins for their own collection. The rumor was that the two pound coin with the queen’s necklace was worth a lot more than its original face value, and the bank and the post offices were issuing extra premium for every submission of the two pound British coin.

Eleven distinctive grades are used as a standard to denote the condition of the British coin. For the coins that have their inscriptions too faded to be understood is categorized as poor, while the coins with legible date and denomination are categorized as fair and good (G) and are considered mediocre coins. Then there are very good (VG), fine (F), very fine (VF), extremely fine (EF), uncirculated (Unc.), and brilliant uncirculated (BU). And for the coins with a perfect mint condition there is a special category called fleur de coin (FDC). These are the “Rolls Royce” of coins.

Lastly, there is an even farther category for the coins known as proof. The features of this category are that these British coins have very sharp edges - a result of deliberate high pressure. There are even categories falling in between grades and are generally denoted in the way “Nearly VF” or “Gem BU” and etc.

British coin collecting is no doubt fascinating and who knows, you might even come into possession of fleur de coin!

Visit the website to discover interesting facts and tips about the coin collecting hobby.

Straight Razors - Do You Know What That Handle Is Made From?

The material that the handles of a straight razor are made from can greatly affect its value - but how do you tell what it is? The following article gives some hints and tips.

Straight razor collecting is a branch of knife collecting and is popular amongst collectors due to its relatively low outlay. Still, there are some straight razors whose value is increased greatly simply due to the material the handles (called scales) are made from. Learning to identify these materials is not easy and even seasoned collectors are sometimes hard-put to define the material exactly. The following is a basic primer in identifying common scale materials.

Ivory. The single most prized scale material, although some would argue for Mother-of-Pearl. Ivory is commonly thought to come from the tusks of elephants. Whilst this is true, there are other sources of ivory, including walruses, whales, hippopotamus and wild boar. All ivory is suitable for inlay and, to a less degree, carving. All ivory is a very dense material that displays a glowing finish when polished. It has often been imitated (due to its cost) and can be difficult to identify. Some points to look out for in the identification of ivory razor scales include: Thinness of the scale - ivory scales are normally about half the thickness of imitation ivory. Look on the inner side of the scale - ivory was sawn to shape and very often the saw marks were left intact - not the case with an imitation. Elephant ivory has a very fine ‘grain’ that runs the length of the handle - any cracks (usually at the fixing pins) will always run with the grain. Ivory will scrape when tested wih a sharp knife - not curl. The ultimate ivory test is the ‘hot pin’ test. Hold the point of a hot pin to some inconspicuous area - imitation ivory will melt instantly, ivory will not.

Buffalo Horn. Most horn scales are made from the horns of the Asian Water Buffalo and can easily be confused with high-grade plastic. Colours vary from shiny black to yellow and even a greenish shade. Some are translucent, allowing light to pass through. If the material shows white streaks then it may well be cow horn. Horn may have designs impressed into it, or may be carved, both of which add to its artistic value and the overall value of the razor. Horn will react in the same way as ivory to the hot pin test; that is, it will not melt.

Mother-of-Pearl. Sometimes called just ‘Pearl’, this substance derives from the interior of a shellfish. For a complete scale, a very large shell is required. This means that usually the scales were made of pieces - this is no detrriment to their worth but a single-piece scale is highly prized. Mother-of-Pearl has an iridescent sheen to it when held to the light that no imitation has ever equalled and for this reason it is quite easy to identify. This material is also fragile - don’t drop it!

Abalone. This comes from the same source as Mother-of-Pearl, but the species of shellfish is different, giving a deeper colour to the finished scale. Abalone is very rarely seen as a full scale - more often it is used as an inlay for decorative purposes. It, too, has never been successfully imitated and, once seen, is unmistakeable. As brittle as Mother-of-Pearl, it should be handled carefully.

Bone. This material is probably the most versatile natural material for making razor scales. Tough and durable, it can be carved or just polished to a satin sheen. When aged, the pores are often apparent, helping to distinguish it from ivory. Any cracks in a bone scale generally do not run with the grain, again helping to tell it apart from ivory. Bone mellows nicely with age but does not have the creamy, milky appearance of ivory. It too will stand the hot pin test.

Tortoise Shell. This product is mis-named, as almost all this material come from the shell of the hawksbill turtle. It is polished to semitransparency, when its mottling becomes evident. With age it may well change to a dark red-brown colour. This has always been a rare scale material, and even before turtles became protected it was imitated with cow horn, then later still with celluloid. Again, the hot pin test will reveal the celluloid imitation, but cow horn can be almost impossible to distinguish without extensive testing.

Celluloid. The great scale material since about 1870. Celluloid was the first real ‘plastic’ and could be easily formed, moulded, coloured and carved. It could be used to closely imitate every natural scale material except Mother-of-Pearl, although the material known as ‘cracked ice’ came fairly close - until you saw the real thing. Two things always expose celluloid - the hot pin test, which will melt celluloid at a touch and the ‘perfectness’ test. This test, although subjective, is a good one. Natural materials, no matter how carefully crafted, contain small flaws and imperfections - celluloid is perfect. So if you see an ‘ivory’ handle that’s perfect - check properly, it’s probably celluloid.

This primer does not pretend to be an exhaustive treatise on razor scale materials - somewhere out there will be a solid gold pair, no doubt! Please note, though, that the dealing in certain types of handle material, notably ivory, is now against the law in some areas of the World - it’s always best to check local statutes before buying a piece.

Steve Dempster writes fiction, copy and articles when he’s not collecting razors. Visit his razor site at The Invisible Edge

New Custom Knives And A Custom Knife Thay You Have To See To Believe

I just had to tell you all about my most recent custom knife buying ventures. I saw so many great custom knives that I thought you all would really appreciate.

Well, let me start by going over what makes a custom knife valuable.

Like all other collectibles, custom knives vary in price, beauty and quality. One of the easiest ways to determine the quality of a custom knife is to find out who the knifemaker is.

Just like with cars, the name of the knifemaker matters. Tim Herman, as an example commands a great deal of respect in the custom knife making world.

Next, you should take close note of the handle of the knife. Of course, you want to see a custom knife handle and not one that looks like it has been mass produced.

There are many materials that custom knife handles can be made from. These handles are nothing like the ones you are used to seeing on your typical household knives.

Some of the engraving in these handles, alone, will make the knife worth buying. Some custom knives have pictures of cars or people carved right into them. It’s absolutely amazing.

Once you have examined the handle, it’s time for you to look at the blade.

Just like the handle, the blades that make up custom knives vary greatly. From material to quality to length and several other categories.

Although I won’t get into it here, knowing how to determine the value and quality of the blade can make or break the deal.

Collecting custom knives is much more an art than a science. However, there is a formula that you can use to gauge a large part of your decision. </